Linen Jacket by Me {Vogue 8754}

Pattern: Vogue 8754

Version:  View B with inseam pockets
Sizing:  10 to 12  (bust ease 38", hip ease 42.5", waist 37")
Fabric:  linen look-alike (polyester/cotton/linen); cotton
Notions:  twine, 1" covered buttons; ribbon; light and heavy weight interfacing
Assembly time: 10 hrs
Instructions: as best as can be
Modification:  previously no modifications, this time just changes to the lining and techniques used
Recommend: yes

Anthropologie distributed this cute linen coat last spring (2012). While I fell in love with the design, I did not like the price, the sewing/fabric/construction, or the embroidery on the bottom. Thus, the Anthro jacket did not end up in my closet. The idea however ended up in my to-do folder. 

Vogue 8754 is one of my all-time favorite designs. It is so easy to make, super comfy, and just the right length to wear with a dress or pants. I have made this jacket at least three times already. I considered retiring the pattern, but when I saw the Anthro button down linen jacket, I knew that I could not retire it just quiet yet.  

 

 

Selecting the type of linen to be used would be a concern though. Pure linen equals pure wrinkles all the time. I have opted for a linen look alike that is considered "suiting" made of mostly polyester, a bit of cotton, and a very small amount of linen.

 

 

 

Making the same garment over and over again can be a little, well...boring. So, I changed this jacket up by making a fun lining from 100% cotton polka dots. The pattern instructs that the front pieces be cut twice from the main fabric; one for lining and one for the outer layer. I decided to, instead, split the lining sections so only a small amount was the linen. The interfacing section was a good guide for cutting the self-faced section out of the complete panel piece, just remember to add a seam allowance. In between the lining and the linen, I added grosgrain ribbon.

From what I understand, most people have issues with sleeves. Honestly, I'm not frightened by them. I take my time, use all the pins in the world, and if need be, baste in place and test. For this material, I thought it was necessary to reinforce the seam, so I ironed on a piece of light-weight interfacing that extends a little over the allowance to the shoulder. The bonus of doing it this way also provided a little lift to the gathers without a shoulder pad.

In addition to interfacing the shoulder, I also used light-weight interfacing covered in fabric for the rear panel. I did this because the fabric is "slouchy" and it was necessary to stabilize it so it would hang straight. Heavy-weight interfacing was used for the collar and button holes. If I could reverse time, I would have done a double interfacing for the collar. 

 

 

Since the outside was beginning to look a bit plain compared to the jazzy inside, I decided to add piping around the edges.  The piping is very small.  I used kitchen trussing twine and a invisible zipper foot to constructed it out of a 1.5" bias cut linen.  After I had the yards of piping needed, I basted the tape into place around the entire coat and collar before the lining was set into place. 

 

For a while, I could not decide which buttons to use. I thought fun plastic ones would be nice, but then when my Make it Mine inspiration board popped up the other day, I remembered what my inspiration was and came to the conclusion that covered buttons were the way to go. I am so glad that I made this decision because it saved so much money. Big buttons are expensive and I had none in my stash that were suitable. 

Notice the buttonholes. I tried a new to me technique. I love the way it turned out on the outside, but I still need to hone my skills on the inside. It would have helped if I had decided to use tailored holes before completing the jacket. 

 

 

 

Piping was used around the cuffs---which is one of my favorite points on the jacket. I always have problems joining the lining to the main coat though. The pattern calls for sewing the lining completely to the jacket facing, but each time I have made the coat I have had issues with it puckering at the hemline. My advice is to figure-out some way of detaching the two. I have yet to fix this problem. Other then that small little problem, I love this pattern and would definitely tell anyone who will listen to make it.